omg dont be ashamed at all!! Hands are generally tough to get used to, lots of artists struggle with it! so dont be ashamed i feel you.
and I actually have made a hand anatomy guide before in fact! If you want to get better at drawing hands I def recommend you learn the basic anatomy first. Please check out the ones I made, I try to make it simple and easy to understand:
There’s my guide to the anatomy, but here’s some more tips that I’ve noted to myself that I’d like to include
First off, I’d like to just note on the fingers: if you pay close attention to your own hand, you may notice the fingers are ever ever so slightly curved inward. It’s a very subtle detail, but I noticed that, despite how slight it is, it can make a hand look more lively, and less stiff.
Second, the “M” on the palm! Your hand moves in many ways, and because it does it creates creases in your hand. The most prominent creases appear to make an M shape; this is handy to remember for what I’m going to talk about next. (It also could be a “W” I guess, or to be more specific a “ )X( “; just think of it in whatever way helps you remember!)
SO now that you see the M, draw your hand as a basic blocked shape and add your details. As you do, you can see that the M divides the palm into four basic parts!
When the hand moves, parts A, B, or C of the palm, alone or in different combos, will create the general poses that the hands do normally. These parts are the parts that move, with D being stationary, no matter what!
Here’s a chart of all the possible combos. Once you have down what part of the hand moves for a certain pose, you can change up the fingers and tweak it a bit to do what you need to make it more specific!
This is simply my method of drawing hands. God knows there are hundreds of tutorials out there by other artists, but personally, this way helps me the best (after learning the anatomy first).
This way I can divide the hand and combine the parts in any such way I need!
Hands take a lot of effort to grapple, and you need to practice them a lot, especially foreshortening of the hand; that’s really something you need to learn through your own studies. Look at your own hands, draw hands from life, from magazines, shows, comics; just draw hands! You’ll eventually figure out a method that works best for you. So to get better at drawing hands; draw hands!! And don’t stress over it, have fun with it!
at page 11, I already forgot Wallis name and had to look it up. he seems nice though. I choked when candy cane guy said his home was the cardboard box XD.
Page 16, jeezus ficking christ what the fuck is they yellow candy thing on his head
page 21, I’m suspicious of that contract and I’m having second thoughts on Wallis now =3=.
OK SO HERE’S THE THING! Lots of artist’s go-to tips about getting better is practice. I can assure you that’s usually because the artist may not want to give tips and that’s one of the best things they can give. So in the case of this post, yes. There is more to getting better at art than JUST practice. Thank you to primomon for putting that out there.
Tuesday Tips – The Mask Helps to figure out the shape of eyes in perspective by thinking of its surrounding area instead of guessing it. -Norm #tuesdaytips #100tuesdaytips #grizandnorm #themask #drawingtutorial #drawingtips #arttutorial
For anons who want to improve. I’m no art student I’m a video game doesn student but like, here you go anyway. Made this at 3:45am so sorry if it’s totally messy and not the easiest to read.
Ahhh just realized how messy it is with my layers and even some text is backward.
Ahhhh I’ll fix it later and by later I mean never 😛
Okay you know what…I’ve gotten about a thousand asks over the past year about how to price commissions – and while I would usually leave this? I wouldn’t mind making an exception because dammit.
This is important to me.
So what DO you charge for your art?
Well lets think about the factors a moment!
Art takes TIME – that TIME is the hours put into your JOB – because that is what you are doing – a JOB. Whether it is on the side or full time, you are providing a paid service for someone else. This is the MOST important thing to remember, YOU ARE DOING A JOB.
IT IS NOT ‘JUST A PIECE OF ART’, IT IS A PIECE OF ACTUAL WORK THAT YOU HAVE DONE.
THIS IS OVERLOOKED SO MUCH.
YES IT’S A DANG FUN JOB AND YES YOU CAN LOVE IT BUT IT IS STILL WORK, RIGHT?!
So respectively, charging accordingly only makes sense! Artists, by nature, are not hired by a company (normally), or at the very least commissions are done entirely on their own time and through privatized means.
This means that there are no health benefits, no vacation pay, no mandated days off (which means no breaks during an exceptionally busy period) and no way to alleviate the possible costs of material that is REQUIRED to do ART (tablet, computer, traditional art supplies of trade, craft supplies for craftsman, etc.)
So when you PAY for a piece of ART you have to understand – you are paying for that artists livelihood – and their costs come completely out of pocket. (This is referred to as ‘overhead’ btw and an artists overhead will vary.)
For instance, overhead is included on all my plush prices- this accounts for my sewing machine cost and maintenance, thread cost, necessary sewing supplies like scissors and the like that are all periodically ‘included’ in what I have to invest in daily on top of basic material and time.
Just as a personal example, I have over $600 worth of thread on hand at any given time. I use Guterman brand EXCLUSIVELY and no i will NOT downgrade because every time I do the thread snaps in the machine or it just doesn’t seem to last as long.
So dang! That sounds like ALOT!
Well that’s cuz it IS.
And digital art still requires a computer, a tablet, and a program to use! So there’s still cost there!
In my personal opinion and what I find best – is to START at a BASE of $10/hour USD no matter what. This is ESSENTIAL and will at least cover the base of your TIME and EFFORT.
Frankly speaking any less than this and you simply aren’t ‘making money’. I know that seems weird, but THINK about everything you have to start with and whatever your skill level – you’re still putting in that TIME as a JOB.
Overhead should be included and I usually would amount to $5-$10 on top of that per piece – depending on what your personal ‘everyday’ materials used are.
And from there you can start upping your price based on your personal skill and clientele. And the TYPE of clientele that is yours is a learning process.
Again: I’ll use myself as a personal example – I sometimes get people asking for ponies from me.
I do not do ponies. I don’t do them because I don’t want to learn, I don’t do them because I know that is not my forte and I can easily pick out several other specialty pony plush artists that would make the client that much happier.
I simply do not think I could make anyone seeking that kind of thing happy with how I do things.
Anyway – that – is kinda my lil ramble on commissions –
Charge for your time dangit. You’re freakin’ worth it.
This is some A+ information here! Thank you for taking the time to share, Alaina!
aaaaa i haven’t seen a post like this before so i figured i’d make my own? i hope a few people would find this useful cuz i don’t think everyone knows yet! anyway here we go:
Anything between 300-539 pixels width will be stretched to 540!
So 299 is the magic number to avoid tumblr blowing up your reaction images! What I also do is just set my canvas to 540 pixels and draw within that, if I think 299 pixels will be too small.
Of course, this only applies to the website and not the mobile app.
You’re a life savior.
if tumblr makes an image stretch, there’s a way to revert it back to it’s intended size!!
click the gear symbol at the top right of a text post and go down to html
in the image file, it’ll say “tmblr-full”. you can change that to “tmblr-hires” and your pic won’t be blown up!!
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